North African Orzo Risotto

Put 4 cups of water in a medium saucepan, cover, and put over medium heat. Rinse, trim, halve, and core the fennel; slice as thinly as you can manage and put into a large bowl. Rinse and quarter the lemon; squeeze one quarter onto the fennel (save the rest for another use). Add 1 tablespoon oil and a sprinkle of salt and pepper and toss to combine. Taste and adjust the seasoning, and let sit.

Drain the pimentos, if necessary, and put them in a food processor along with the coriander, cumin, chipotle, 1 peeled garlic clove, the dates, and a pinch of salt. Purée, adding water 1 tablespoon at a time, until the harissa is smooth but not too runny.

Trim the roots and dark green parts from the leeks; slice each lengthwise and then slice crosswise. Put them in a colander and rinse well to remove any sand. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally until they begin to soften, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the orzo and stir to coat with oil. Add the harissa and cook until it’s fragrant and slightly darkened, 1 or 2 minutes.

Raise the heat to medium-high. Use a ladle to add 1/2 cup of the hot water from the saucepan to the skillet and stir. When the water is just about absorbed by the orzo, add another 1/2 cup and stir. Continue adding hot water as it is absorbed and stirring. Check the orzo for doneness after 10 minutes; it should be tender not mushy (it may take up to 20 minutes).

Drain the capers and stir them into the finished orzo. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Rinse, dry, and trim the mint and parsley; strip and chop the leaves. Add half the herbs to the fennel and toss; taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve the orzo garnished with the remaining herbs, with the fennel alongside.